WebThe main wave features Amplitude This is the vertical distance from still water level to wave peak. (Approximately half the height of the wave) Barrel The barrel is the hollow part of a breaking wave where there is a gap between the face of … WebA sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change. The sea state can be assessed either by an …
(PDF) Two peak wave spectrum model - ResearchGate
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United Kingdom Surf Map – Wind and Wave forecasts
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